Friday, January 28, 2011

La Garifuna - Sambo Creek

We ventured out today to visit the nearby town of Sambo Creek, a well known Garifuna community. The Garinagu (singular Garifuna) are descendants of Carib, Arawak, and West African people. Today the Garifuna live primarily in Central America, along the Caribbean Coast in Belize, Nicaragua, and Honduras, including the mainland, and on the island of Roatan.

The history of when the Garifuna arrived to Central America is somewhat debated, but record shows in the late 1600s a wrecked African slave ship landing in the Caribbean. The survivors, members of the Mokko ethnicity from today’s Nigeria (now known as Ibibio) reached the small island of Bequia, where the Caribs brought them to Saint Vincent and ill-used them. When the Africans became too powerful and independent, the Caribs planned to kill all the male children. The Africans learned of the plan and revolted against the Carib people, eventually dominating the island. When Britain was awarded rule over St. Vincent , they considered the Black Caribs enemies, and therefore deported them to Roatan, an island off the coast of Honduras. Because the island could not sufficiently support their population, the Garangui petitioned the Spanish authorizes to be allowed to settle on the mainland. The Spanish employed them, and they spread along the Caribbean coast of Central America.

The Garifuna have their own language, an Arawakan language, derived from Arawak and Carib, with English, French, and Spanish. Almost all Garifuna are bilingual speaking the official languages of the countries they inhabit such as Spanish, Kriol, and English. Garifuna are also well known for their music, with punta being the most famous. Drumming and dancing is also a big part of their culture.

We arrived to Sambo Creek mid-day and many people were out and about walking around town. I saw women carrying laundry baskets on top of their heads, kids playing in the yard, and men waiting by the bus station. The rain started to come down heavy, so we took cover at a nearby restaurant on the beach. We heard that the seafood is the best at Sambo Creek, so we all ordered shrimp dishes. Ben got soup, Leah got the house garlic shrimp with rice, and Natalie and I ordered friend shrimp. (Yes I know... fatties) The meal was pretty good, and even better when the waiter told us about the promotion, where we could get a second entre for 33 lempiras more (less than $2). After we ate lunch, we headed back to the main road to catch the bus back to EL Porvenir.


Rained out Sambo Creek

Overall Sambo Creek was really nice. The people were very friendly, and everyone spoke to us as we walked around town. It was nice to actually see people who essentially look like me. There are many Garifuna who live about Honduras, but to see a whole community full of them was very enlightening. Behavior and cultural commonalities can be pulled from the Garifuna and African-American communities. When I saw two Garifuna men at the bus stop talking and sharing stories, it reminded me of home, where on any given day, one can see two African-American men sitting at the bus stop, just talking and sharing stories as well… Neither group waiting for the bus, but somehow they find themselves there.


Teenagers hanging out in Sambo Creek

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